In the world of fashion, underground styles often carry a certain charm and mystery, and today’s underground fashion scene has evolved significantly. What was once limited to second-hand shops and DIY creations has blossomed into a global movement, thanks to the rise of online platforms and e-commerce. Among the brands that have emerged from this digital revolution is Askasu, a unique fashion label founded by Polish designer Joanna Nowak.
Askasu’s designs are influenced by gothic, post-apocalyptic, and bondage aesthetics, offering a fresh perspective on these darker themes. What started as a passion project in Warsaw, Poland, has since grown into a thriving business, with customers from across Europe and the United States. “I’ve always believed in working at my own pace,” says Joanna, reflecting on her journey. “The speed at which my brand has gained attention since last year still surprises me. I’ve planned several collaborations with talented artists from all over Europe.”
Joanna’s journey into fashion design was not one of formal training but rather a self-taught path driven by personal need. Growing up in Lubin, a small city in Lower Silesia, Poland, she spent much of her time in the library and exploring nature. Her interest in art led her to Kraków, where she studied at the High School of Fine Art. Despite lacking formal fashion education, Joanna’s drive to create clothes that matched her own aesthetic fueled her early designs. “When I was a teenager, I felt the need to make my own clothes. The mainstream stores just didn’t offer what I liked. Back then, online shopping wasn’t what it is today,” she recalls.
Joanna honed her sewing skills over many years, initially learning from her mistakes and later gaining professional experience while working with men’s suits. She stresses that entering the world of fashion doesn’t require a degree—dedication and self-education are key. “Learning how to sew is accessible,” she says. “You don’t need a degree to get into the fashion industry. Self-learning has saved me a lot of time and allowed me to start my own brand.”
One of the key aspects of Askasu’s success is its handmade, high-quality designs. Without the overhead of running a traditional brick-and-mortar store, Joanna can focus on creating unique pieces while keeping her products exclusive to her online shop. “I didn’t want the burden of wholesale,” she explains. “By selling only through my website, I can keep prices reasonable while ensuring that each item is unique.”
However, the journey to launching Askasu was far from easy. “Starting my business required a lot of sacrifices,” Joanna shares. “I had a demanding job and worked after hours to save money for an industrial sewing machine. Eventually, I took the leap and quit my job to pursue my passion full-time.”
Before officially launching her brand, Joanna built an online presence by sharing her creations on social media platforms like Facebook and Instagram. Initially, she didn’t think of her work as a business but simply wanted to share her designs. “I was creating from passion, not thinking about making it a business,” she says. But as her designs gained attention, she realized she wanted to establish herself as a designer and continue making handmade pieces. Though she hasn’t partnered with anyone yet, she’s open to hiring people to help with tailoring as the brand grows.
Askasu’s collections often feature harness-style bodices paired with flowing chiffon gowns and skirts. The brand gained significant attention for pieces like the Lace Strips Lingerie and the Dark Elf Dress, both of which exemplify her unique approach to gothic fashion. “I was initially hesitant to use lace in my designs, as it’s often overused in gothic fashion,” Joanna explains. “But I’ve focused on using lace in fresh, unique ways—juxtaposing it with bold lines to create something new.”
While Askasu’s designs have caught the attention of everyday women, they’ve also gained popularity among musicians and other creatives. Joanna often collaborates with alternative models and photographers, as well as musicians like the vocalist from the band As Night Falls. “I love working with musicians because their energy adds something special to the fashion,” she says. “It’s refreshing to see how music and fashion can come together in new ways.”
Joanna draws inspiration from a wide range of sources, from iconic designers like Alexander McQueen and Gareth Pugh to the alternative fashion scene. She’s particularly influenced by collaborations with models and photographers, each bringing their own sense of beauty and creativity to the table. “Working with these artists fuels my inspiration,” she shares. “Every collaboration is a learning experience, and it helps me grow as a designer.”
In addition to creativity, Askasu is committed to sustainability. Joanna carefully selects the fabrics for each piece and ensures that the garments are made to last. “I don’t follow fleeting trends,” she says. “I want my designs to stand the test of time, and I focus on quality and longevity. Handmade pieces are a crucial part of that.”
Despite the challenges of running a small business, Joanna is determined to keep her prices affordable while maintaining high-quality standards. “I don’t want to pass the costs of quality onto my customers,” she explains. “I strive to keep my designs accessible to as many people as possible.”
Looking ahead, Joanna plans to continue growing Askasu and exploring new design possibilities. “The harness element is just one way to express my style,” she says. “I’m not concerned if the trend fades—my focus is on continually evolving and staying true to my vision.”
Grateful for the support she’s received, Joanna ends, “I want to thank all the fans and friends who have supported me. Without them, I wouldn’t be where I am today.”
